I miss Gourmet Magazine terribly. Since Condé Nast decided to scrap it a year and a half ago, I haven’t really found a good substitute food publication. Cooks Illustrated is fun and scientific and obsessive, Bon Appetite is enthusiastically entertainment-centred, Martha Stewart has some good recipes and is very attractive to read… but nobody really combines fantastic, passionate journalism, amazing food photography and incredible ideas and recipes the way Ruth Reichl, the magazine’s editor and a wonderful woman who I once had the pleasure of meeting, did.
I tore this recipe out of the June 2005 issue of Gourmet, and I’ve had it and used it ever since then. It was my introduction to brown butter, and if Gourmet did nothing else for me, I owe it an awful lot for that. These cookies are kind of incredible. They’re melty-crisp, they’re buttery but they’re definitely not shortbread, and they are best with a tart jam (I like cherry) in the middle.
Gourmet has died, but its offshoot web site, www.Epicurious.com, lives on, thank goodness. Most, if not all, of Gourmet’s old recipes are there, and I think it’s a real national treasure.